Tuesday, May 11, 2010

More Delhi


VISpas visited Dillihaut for some handicraft shopping, Majnu Kutilla, the Tibetan Refugee Colony, and the National Gallery of Modern Art near India Gate, to see some amazing photographs, paintings and sculptures. While shopping at Dillihaut, Laura was asked by the popular tv show "India's Got Talent" to provide the 5 second opening line, (India's got talent!), which she performed perfectly. They said it will air in June. Here's Laura with the henna painted on her hand.

Parents, we're getting ready to head out to dinner and then the airport. We spent yesterday and this morning with Curtis, who brought us some chocolate from home. Students are excited to be going home to see you guys, though sad to be leaving each other. (Delhi, however, will be nice to leave, it is incredibly hot and sticky)

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Delhi


Well, we're back in Delhi after a tearful goodbye to SECMOL students last night and this morning. Big dance party and then the screening of Nick's movie/documentary of the semester. Students are mostly napping this afternoon and catching up on missed sleep and also catching up on ice cream intake at the cafe across the street, something we've definitely missed while in Ladakh.
-Amy

Tuesday, May 4, 2010

Village of Ursi


Ella, surrounded by the children of Ursi, overlooking the village

Lamayuru Monastary


Pheylan at Lamayuru Monastary, begining of trek

Saturday, May 1, 2010

Exhibition Photos





Here are some photos of the GREAT exhibition work presented to the SECMOL community by students
-Amy

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Independent projects and internships underway

VIS Exhibition Topics Spring 2010

A major feature of The VIS Academic Program for high school juniors and seniors is Exhibition, an independent study capstone class. Long-established VIS connections with people and organizations around Ladakh benefit internships that allow students to delve deeper into local communities, and contribute to the work of organizations and local society. Research is often undertaken jointly with SECMOL students. Final exhibition projects include written as well as audio/visual components, and are presented to students, teachers and mentors at SECMOL, and to various communities back at home. Students currently in Ladakh have chosen their exhibition topics, and this month will be devoted to research and internships to culminate in presentations at the SECMOL campus at the end of April. For more information on exhibitions, and the VIS Academic Program, see www.vermontis.org.

Laura Yurkosky (Thetford Academy): Nomadic Culture. Laura aims to explore the changing lifestyles of the nomadic groups in Ladakh, covering ideas such as nomadic settlements, schooling of children, and family traditions. She will speak with members of nomadic and semi-nomadic communities.

Nora McKay (Middlebury UHS): Amchi Medicine. Nora plans to focus on amchi medicine, specifically on the herbs and their uses as well as other healing techniques. She will be in contact with local amchis and organizations such as the Ladakh Society for Traditional Medicine.

Dan Noel (Whitcomb HS): Building Ladakhi Homes. Dan plans to build a scale model of an actual Ladakhi home, and investigate whether any aspects of that building or the process it required might be improved with modern techniques.
Schuyler Klein (Middlebury UHS): Ladakhi Construction/Sustainable Building. Schuyler intends to research the traditional building techniques used in Ladakh as compared with modern techniques employed, and to create a model and/or sketches of such buildings and the processes they require.

Marga Kempner (Burlington HS): Family Structure. Marga will study issues of family including structure, changes caused by modernization and the demand for higher education and jobs, and possible domestic issues and their solutions. She will collect drawings of families from her interview subjects.

Emery Boudreau (Burr & Burton Academy): Climate Change. Emery will investigate the causes and effects of climate change in Ladakh, with a specific focus on pollution and CO2 emissions. She will interview local NGOs and collect thoughts from locals.

Nicole Tamayo (S. Burlington HS): Global Warming. Nicole will focus on the effects of global warming on village life, specifically with regard to water supply. She will collect villager's thoughts on the issue during home stays, and will interview NGOs in Leh.

Bo Attley (Leland & Gray HS): Appropriate Technology. Bo will research how appropriate technologies have been employed traditionally in Ladakh, and which new methods are now used. He aims to intern with a local NGO.

Pheylan Martin (The Sharon Academy): Pheylan will research local beliefs about paranormal activity. He will gain a stronger sense of Ladakhi culture as defined by local views about spirits, ghosts, and superstitions.

Mikey Piscitelli (The Sharon Academy): Tibetan Refugee Escapes. Mikey will interview Tibetans who fled Tibet and learn how they accomplished their journeys. He will collect stories from the older residents of Choglamsar and maybe second-hand stories from their children in some cases.

Ella Hayslett (The Sharon Academy): The Ladakhi Language. Ella will design a course outline with lesson plans for potential visitors to Ladakh who wish to learn the basics of the language. She will meet with a local language scholar and practice her Ladakhi language skills in villages in order to better understand which items would be most useful in an introductory course in Ladakhi.

Max Hausslein (Burr & Burton Academy): Arbory in Ladakh. Max will research which types of trees are grown in Ladakh, how they can grow in Ladakh’s harsh, dry climate, and which other trees might be introduced successfully into the Ladakhi landscape.

Ali Riggen (U32 HS) : Midwifery. Ali plans to investigate the birthing process, and perhaps how traditional and western approaches compare. She has visited one NGO with a women's health program thus far, and will continue to interview NGOs, doctors and individuals.

2 Days in Rumbuk

We arrived in Rumbuk around lunch time on Saturday after walking for three hours. Right after being served tea, cookies, and a lunch of yellow rice, we decided to get right outside in the wonderful weather to check out the village. Nora, Laura, and I left our house that was at the top of the hill and walked over an unplanted field to get to a tiny stream on the other side of the narrow valley. After realizing that beautiful rocks with crystal pieces lay along the side of the stream, I got addicted to walking with my head down next to it trying to find the best rocks. We decided that we thought some of the best rocks might be hiding so we plopped ourselves down in a pile and starting searching through them. After awhile searching for rocks just turned into sitting and enjoying the sun and the beautiful view of the village.
From where we sat we could see all of the houses of the village, all clumped together on one hill with little stone enclosures in between for the many cows, donkeys, goats, and sheep. Little dirt paths led between the enclosures and were like magical alleyways perfect for exploring. The narrow valley, with a few small fenced areas for the animals and fields that would soon be plowed and planted, lay between the houses and us. The fields seemed to disappear in between two mountains farther up the valley. Some of the mountains were brown with snow still in the crevaces and some were a deep purple color. We watched lambs graze on the grass in front of us and gigantic dzos (a cross between a yak and a a cow) pass by gracefully.
The next morning, the whole the VIS group, except for Pheylan, one Ladakhi SECMOL student, and me , departed down the road for the two hour walk back to SECMOL. The plan was for the two of us to stay one more night to get further information for our exhibition. We waved and said our goodbyes to the rest of the group. It was a strange experience having them leave without us. It felt like we were villagers ourselves, wishing the foreigners a safe journey back. We were alone in Rumbuk!
For my exhibition I am learning about the Ladakhi language. This includes learning how to speak more of the language, as well as the history of the language and how it is used today in comparison to Tibetan, Hindi, and English, the three other prominent languages in the area. To get information about the history and politics of the language I will speak with scholars in Leh, but staying in a village by myself was the perfect way to force me to speak Ladakhi!
I practiced saying phrases that I knew but wouldn’t have had to say if I wasn’t alone as well as learning new words through our little yellow Ladakhi book and through pointing or making gestures at things. The best part of my day alone in Rumbuk was when I passed a village woman working next to her green house. I asked her if she wanted help with her work, “nga nerang-a las yato choya?” She put me right to work shoveling! It was nice to be able to help her, and after a little while we both sat down and took a break together. While we were resting we sort of had a conversation that I think was understood by both of us which was really exciting! I told her that there were three cows at SECMOL plus a new baby calf that was born while we were away on our Changtang Trek.
Before I went to help the village woman, I had set my notebook with all my Ladakhi notes down on the steps to one of the houses. I returned to find it almost unrecognizable. Some goats or sheep decided that it was very tasty! At first I just thought it was very dirty, but then I realized that the only section that was missing was the one that I had taken ALL my notes in! Ah! It was a little upsetting but more just funny. Thankfully I hadn’t taken too many important notes yet.
I am really glad that I spent the night in Rumbuk by myself. It was a great way to start speaking in Ladakhi and prepared me for a longer homestay, which I hope to do in the next couple of weeks. I came back to SECMOL without a lot of notes (I won’t leave my notebook unattended again) but with a funny story, the feeling of accomplishment because I was able to have a conversation in Ladakhi, and a bunch of really cool rocks.
Ella Hayslett

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Pangong Lake


Girls at Pangong Lake, begining of Changtang Trek

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Changthang Trek


We just got back from our trek in Changthang, an area known for nomads, cold weather, and herds of horses and yaks. Pangong Lake was beautiful and we were able to see the Tibetan border. I had great home stays. The first night, I played with a four year old girl named Punchok and her baby sheep and made yak dumplings with the family. We celebrated Dan’s birthday with chocolate bars, which was fun. On Easter, I was in a home stay with a little boy, his mother and grandmother, and a 20-day-old goat. On the last day of hiking, we climbed over a 17,000 foot pass. It was really challenging and I was exhausted but everybody was encouraging and helpful. We were all in it together. Fortunately, we made it over the pass, and below us were cars to take us back to SECMOL, which has started to feel like home. In the next couple weeks, we’ll all be working on our Exhibition projects.

Marga

Appropriate Technology Articles

The following articles were written as a joint project between Environmental Science and English Class, focusing on interviewing skills and journalism in English, and agriculture and appropriate technology in Environmental Science. Over the course of our week-long trek through the Sham Region, students interviewed villagers and homestay families about the innovations and inventions they saw in fields and homes, from solar panels to composting toilets, stoves made out of repurposed oil drums, the “barbed wire,” Seabuckthorn, used to strengthen walls and to protect trees, tin cans and trash as an anti-grazing measure, the use of dzos and wooden plows to sow fields, hillside terracing, and the ran-tak, a water powered flour mill. Here are a few that students volunteered to post:

Max
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Trash That Saves Trees

To most villagers in the Himalayan desert of Ladakh, within the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir, plastic bags and tin cans stuck around the trunks of trees are not uncommon. After all, there is a purpose to the “trash.”

Wandering yaks, cows, and dzos (yak-cow crossbreeds) can lay waste to young willow and poplar trees by gnawing at their bark and young twigs. Tin cans, plastic bags, instant noodle wrappers, and old clothing (among other waste) can protect the saplings when wrapped around the trunks.

“People use what there is,” says Tsewang Nyamgil of Hemisshukpachen village. “Dzos will not kill the trees because dzos will not eat what we use.”

A simple comparison of two trees of the same grove yields an immediate contrast: the protected trees grow healthy while their naked counterparts are often stunted or killed at a young age.

Yet even though the practice works effectively, many still recognize it as unattractive.

“It maybe does not look so nice,” says Rigzin Dorje of Ule village, “but [it] is better than dead trees.”

In the American society where being green has become a fashionable way of life, there is still a difference between the unaesthetic re-use of trash and a stylish eco-conscience.

In Ladakhi village life, however, there is no matter of aesthetics and style. Rather, the anti-grazing barrier is simple, practical, and effective, not to mention an effective outlet for waste that would otherwise be dumped.

Occasionally, one will come across a solution more pleasing to the Western eye while remaining just as effective.

Seabuckthorn, a local shrub known for its sharp thorns and often used for fencing, is sometimes roped to trees. Not only does it provide the same inedible barrier, but it also provides a sharp and painful one should any animal encounter it.

This sharp defense is also where the seabuckthorn has its downfall: no human wants an encounter with the thorns on accident either. With tin cans and other trash, this problem does not

Ella
Himalayan Traditional Toilets: No Toilet, Just Beneficial Composting

The Western idea of a toilet fits the dictionary definition; a “bowl for urinating or defecating into, typically plumbed into a sewage system and with a flushing mechanism (New Oxford American Dictionary).” Using the toilet seems like one of the most elemental aspects of life, one that would remain the same from culture to culture. But really, from the West to Ladakh, a region in the Indian Himalaya, the fact that we all have to go poop is the only thing that remains the same about going to the toilet.
In the Himalayan Mountains, going to the bathroom usually means getting your shoes on and walking outside to a dirt-floored, wooden walled edifice. Inside is a traditional composting toilet: a simple hole in the ground. Besides the hole, the toilet room usually contains a pile of a mixture of old broken down manure, dirt, and grass in the corner, with a shovel propped up against the pile. After one is done defecating, some of the broken down manure from the pile is thrown down the hole. When you walk into the room, you are greeted not by an unpleasant smell but by a sweet musty one.
Composting toilets in Ladakh are both the traditional and sensible choice. The Himalayas have very little access to water, so flush toilets would be using a precious resource. Composting toilets not only conserving water, but they also put the poop to use. The manure is shoveled out once or twice a year to use on the fields in the springtime. Little effort is needed to make the benefit of manure worth it.
“I spend three hours a month shoveling dirt into the toilet. Other than that there is no work except for once a year [when I shovel the dung out of the toilet,]” said Tundup Tsewang Gonpa from the village of Hemischukpachen.
At Gonpa’s house, they combine the human dung with cow and goat dung. He explained that human dung is harder to break down, but, “As long as I mix three kinds of manure in a pile, it composts the right way.”
Tsering Wangchuk of Ang village said, “There has never been any problem.”
Not one villager said that they had plans of switching to a flush toilet. So, atleast for a while, it seems that using the bathroom will remain a cultural difference between the West and Ladakh.

Bo
Powered by the Sun: Solar panels in Ladakh

Thirteen thousand feet above the ocean in northern India lies the high altitude desert of Ladakh. In this desert resources are scarce, so every resource is highly prized and conserved diligently. This need has led the local people to create and embrace practical, environmentally friendly and sustainable equipment for use in their daily lives. One such piece of equipment is the solar panel.
“The government gives each house in our village one solar panel and one battery, these can be used when the government’s diesel power generators are not functioning” said Tundup Nangyal of Ang through our translator Tanzin. “the diesel only runs from 6:30-11 and (the solar panel battery can be) used for 8 hours when fully charged at any time. We use often when the diesel is not working.”
When Tundup was asked what was his favorite part of solar panels he responded simply, “lights.”
Tundup and his village of Ang are not the only town to benefit from government issued solar panels. Tsering Stanzin of Yang-tang was also given solar panels by the government, which he can use when the village’s power is turned off between 11 pm at night at 6 pm the next day. When Tsering was asked what was his favorite part about solar panels? He replied,
“Solar panels allow me to read Buddhist books and socialize at night.”
In fact Yang-tang’s main supply of power is not from a diesel plant like that of Ang, but from, “a solar plant (located) in the upper part of village.” The village of Yang-Tang had tried several other forms of clean power before deciding on solar. Twelve years before solar was introduced into the village a small hydro dam project was installed above the village.
“The dam worked but they moved it down river and it stopped working because there was not enough water” said Tsering Stanzin. Solar has provided Yang-tang with electricity ever since.
When asked if solar panels were good or bad the overall answer was positive Tsiring Dorjay of Hemishukpachan said, “solar panels don’t pollute like the diesel generators so they are good” and Rigzen Dorjay of Ulay said, “the solar panel allows us to charge our cell phone when the electricity is off in the village” However solar panels are not perfect, they too have their flaws.
“Solar is environmentally good but, it is very expensive” said Skarma Seeku of Hemishukpachan, “everything has some goods and bads” His village of Hemishukpachan got solar for the first time in 1993 but, “the solar did not power the village enough, so the government gave us generators” he said. The solar panels in town are now used strictly for powering the phone lines. But even after seeing the problems with solar when asked if he would buy some he said with a chuckle, “if I had money I would buy, but I don’t have.”

Pheylan
Leaving it All Behind
Deep in the Himalayas is nestled a culture that depends on efficient, appropriate technology to lead their lives in a way that makes sense. We come from a nation where flush toilets are the norm, and anything else would be considered primitive, but in Ladakh, a region in northern India tucked away in the Himalayas, most cannot have these toilets because they pollute the water, and are expensive to install and maintain. Instead, they rely on composting toilets with no water. However, there is a simple Ladakhi villager that is leaving this behind.
Dorje Namgyal, a man who lives in the village of Ang, hosts foreigners in his home. He has a composting toilet for temporary use, but in a room that usually stays locked, Dorje has an American style bathroom complete with a shower and tiled floors. The bathroom is not completely installed because, as Dorje says through translator Jigmet, “The plumbing is very confusing to put in”. Dorje is still willing to push through it, as he says that his family “likes English/American technology, because it makes foreigners comfortable.” Almost no Ladakhis in a small village setting have toilets like this, nor will they in the near future. They pollute the waters, are expensive to install and maintain, and are impractical for their lifestyle.
The composting toilet that is prevalent in Ladakh operates very simply. It is a room with a hole in the floor, that goes down into a lower compartment. The user puts in a shovelful of manure or other composting material after each use. Dorje empties his toilet out two or three times a year, and annually in March whether it really needs it or not. The manure is moved outside to finish decomposing before being spread on the fields, but only after decomposing to a safe extent. This may sound like nothing but a hassle, but they are rewarding in their own way. They provide more fertilizer for the field, they do not pollute, and Dorje says that his composting toilet is inexpensive to fix, because, unlike it’s flushing counterpart, the composting toilet never breaks.

Nora
Situated 8,000 miles away from Vermont at 12,000 feet above sea level in the Himalaya, one wouldn’t think that Vermont would have much in common with Ladakh, India. But no matter how vast an expanse of ocean or land separates different cultures, one fact remains constant: When temperatures drop below -25 degrees Celsius, all people need a reliable way to keep warm. However, though the basic need remains the same, the means people consider necessary to meet this need vary greatly between the two societies. While Vermonters rely heavily on central heating systems and expensive wood stoves, the people of Ladakh have devised a way of heating their houses that is both economical and sustainable. A tin stove, often fashioned of an old oil drum and other scraps of recycled metal is ubiquitous throughout the homes of Ladakh. These are fueled by a combination of wood and animal dung, both of which Ladakhis have easy and plentiful access to.
“We can produce wood and dung,” says Skarma Punchok Seeku of Hemisshukpachan village in Ladakh. “So it is easier than a gas stove.” Though wood is not overly plentiful in the dry Himalayan climate, virtually every family living in a Ladakhi village owns a cow or a dzo (a cross between a yak and a cow). Both of these animals produce ample manure to fuel the stoves, which are used for heating as well as cooking. The manure is collected and formed into cakes, which are left to dry in the strong Ladakhi sun. “Wood burns hotter and longer,” says Skarma Punchok Seeku, but the use of the dung cakes is not without benefits. When burned they give off a pleasant musky scent which contributes to the welcoming atmosphere of a typical Ladakhi kitchen, and their sheer availability is definitely a plus. In fact, one can’t help but wonder if Vermont could learn a little something from the Ladakhis’ method. After all, in a state which is said to have more cows than people, surely there is more than enough manure to go around.

Laura
BARBED WIRE OF LADAKH
Ladakh, India- In a part of the world where cattle are necessary, winters are harsh, and food is limited, a good fence is essential. In northern India, in a part of the Jammu and Kashmir region known as Ladakh, walk through a village and note the scraggly spiky wire atop stone and mud walls. Look closer at that wire, see how thickly it grows? Wait a minute, it grows?! As it turns out, the Ladakhi version of barbed wire is a plant and not a metal, a plant known to English speakers as sea buck thorn and to Ladakhis as tsetalulu.
“First we build the wall, then we put down mud, then sea buck thorn.” Tsewang Namgil of Hemis Shuch Pachin explained. The defensive part of the fence is growing inside of the wall, not placed on top like ordinary defense systems.
“The wood burns hot, too hot, and very long” Namgil said. After the shrub’s five to six year lifespan ends, the wood is used to cook barley flour. Barley flour, called tsampa in Ladakhi, is a crucial part of the Ladakhi’s diets and eaten daily in some form or another. The wood of the sea buck thorn plant is perfect for roasting the home-grown tsampa. The plant also grows berries that can be mashed to make a delectable juice.
When driving through the more urban parts of Ladakh, you can see broken glass topping stone fences, and real barbed wire surrounding important military buildings. But sea buck thorn has so many uses that it would be impractical to replace it in villages. As long as roasted barley flour is a staple food, and as long yaks, cows, and dzos need to be kept off fields, sea buck thorn will be the most practical form of fencing.


Schuyler
STEPPING DOWN THE HILLSIDE
In a world that is constantly growing, the way in which we produce our food is becoming ever more important. In Ladakh, a region in northern India far from large-scale factory farming and temperate climates, many people still farm the land as their ancestors did. Mountainous and dry, Ladakhis have had to learn how to cope with the sloping earth and scarcity of water. The solution is to build an intricate system of stone terracing and fencing, thanka.
“The fences have been used forever and were made by my ancestors,” Tsewang Namgil of Hemishukpachen noted. With the terraces in place, the land is easier to farm, earth doesn’t have to be moved around as much and overall labor is reduced.
In Ang, Stanzin Dolma explained that “The fencing must be repaired very quickly or the terracing will be washed away.”
In Namgil’s village they “repair the terraces every year.” Despite the fact that the terracing is man-made and needs lots of maintenance, it is still a part of the landscape instead of an obstruction or an eyesore. The land steps down the hillside, with curving walls containing the fertile soil. The stones used in the construction of the fences are all found in the soil contained by the terraces, making construction of the terraces easy and beneficial for the soil.
There is no use for tractors because of the inability for something with wheels to travel from terrace to terrace. Instead, dzos (a cross between a yak and a cow) are hitched to plows and all of Namgil’s plowing can be done in three days. The only other machinery used is a hydro-run mill to grind the grain.
Crops grown in the terracing include wheat, barley, mustard greens, tomatoes, potatoes, turnips, radishes, peas, coriander and cabbage.
Every village has its own irrigation system, each following the same principle: The main river runs through the village and is diverted to every field for a certain period of time with a complex system of channels. This way, all the crops are properly irrigated and erosion is stopped almost entirely.
In the United States, farming methods are usually based on the factory farm system with an emphasis on efficiency and high yields, using advanced machines and seeds. But this poses many problems, including rapid topsoil erosion, depletion of groundwater and reliance on foreign oil. While textbooks talk about the many benefits of using terracing as a sustainable technology, the terracing referenced in this article is almost entirely impractical in the United States where labor is cut out of the system whenever possible. Regardless, one might want to take a few tips from a place where water and fertile soil are scarce: We are running out of the very same resources at an alarming rate.

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Hello outside world

Two months ago in the Burlington airport we were asked what we were most glad we packed. Some people said socks, others said water bottles, i said my Ipod. Now i realize just how right i was to say that. On our way to anywhere with the foundation students on a bus, they sing to EVERY song on the radio in very high pitched voices. Now at first i enjoyed this but, during the 2 hour ride to see an artificial glacier i cannot express how glad i was to have my Ipod with me . Because i want to be an engineer when i get older i am really interested in the Artificial Glaciers, mostly because it was just so simple, yet effective and that's the engineering ideal. When we arrived i was a little bit surprised by what i saw, there was a huge wall of stone and a small patch of white ice off to the right side. Now essentially the A.G is bunch of rocks piled in different ways to slow down the glacial melt water and allow it to freeze so it can be stored in winter and it can melt faster in summer. Everyone was so excited to go ice skating on the artificial glacier like last year but, when we looked over the retaining wall we were surprised to find that there was in fact no ice. at The entire reservoir was empty except for one small corner filled with snow. When we got over our initial disappointment we got a talk from "the Glacier man" tserang norfel(that's probably spelled totally wrong) he told us that above us was 2 more artificial glaciers and we were going to walk up and see them. At first i was excited, the scenery was beautiful with snow capped mountains and narrow valleys, and the artificial glacier was so cool. Now all this was really cool, but after an hour of straight up hill hiking i was too tired to worry about doing anything besides putting one foot in front of the other. When we finally reached the top, there was a very small patch of ice, maybe the size of a small pond back home and everyone started skating. It was a really cool experience, Mikey, Nick and Schuyler all tried to do tricks off this little hill of ice, sometimes succeeding other times failing, fairly humorously. At the end of the day we all left the day feeling happy, because the downhill walk was significantly easier then the uphill one and our stomachs were full of chapati and apricot jam. We boarded the bus and slowly started creeping down the hill we had just driven up. I put on my ipod thankful for the relaxing music in my head and fell asleep. Only to wake up several minutes later after hitting my head off the side of the bus while we drove over a rough section of road.

Bo Attley

Pizza Night

After over a month of a diet consisting almost exclusively of lentils and potatoes over rice, besides the occasional yummy from our care packages (thank you parents! You have no idea what a difference those make!), the VISpas decided it was time to introduce some classic American (or, I guess, Italian) cuisine to SECMOL. So last Sunday we had pizza night! After scouring Leh on our last trip in for cheese (thank you Bo, who went to no less than five different stores) and tomatoes, we returned to SECMOL campus pumped and ready for action. We began at 9:00 Sunday morning, washing and chopping tomatoes for what turned out to be the biggest vat of tomato sauce I had ever seen. Throughout the day, VISpas wandered in and out of the kitchen whenever we had a spare moment to see what needed to be chopped, grated, kneaded, or rolled. Once the sauce was simmering away on our solar cooker, we mixed flour, salt, yeast, and water to make a ball of dough about the size of a large beach ball. Becky lent us sizable amounts of basil and oregano from her own private stash and at 4:00, the first shift of VISpas headed into the kitchen to commence the actual assembly of between fifteen and twenty pizzas. We topped them with cheese (which comes only in cans here), onions, more basil and oregano, and Mr. James, in an act of incredible generosity, donated a stick of his own personal pepperoni on a pizza especially for the VISpas which was devoured in approximately 16 seconds.

As the evening progressed, the pizza making process got increasingly ridiculous as VISpas began to decorate the waiting pizza crusts with dough animals, hearts, stars, and other whimsical objects. Nicole and Emery took it upon themselves to fashion an entire alligator out of dough (which we baked and set free in the Indus the next morning). American music played in our little kitchen from 4:00 straight through until 10:30, and the atmosphere was as lighthearted and energetic as I had even seen it. It was without a doubt, exactly what we needed to really come together as a community and on top of that, the Ladakhis LOVED it!

By the end of the night, all of us were so full that we were essentially incapacitated. We collapsed on the benches in the kitchen, unable to move or speak in complete sentences, the word "pizza" bringing a wave of nausea over all of us who had eaten more than any of us cared to calculate. Of course, the next morning, upon learning that there were leftovers, we decided to forgo the chipati and dal offered to us, opting instead for the bits and pieces of pizza we were too sick to even think about the night before.

-Nora
its finally springtime here! the days are really warm and sunny, the trees are about to explode with leaves. we (mailny the girls) have been sleeping outside on the roof almost every night for the past couple of weeks. with tons of blankets and layers of clothing, it's very comfortable laying under the shooting stars and listening to the wild dogs barking in the desert. in the morning we wake up early with the sun beating down on us and we try to stay asleep for a bit longer by burying our heads in our sleeping bags, but soon we get up and go down to breakfast. the first time we slept outside, we were all almost asleep when everyone noticed that there was a dzo on the other side of the roof. all they could see was its giant shape in the dark. everything about this trip is so funny and strange.. a few weeks ago ella, emery, max, laura and i went on a bone hunting expedition. becky had mentioned something about there being human bones up on the hillside and we decided to go see for ourselves. the landscape near secmol is the most bizzare thing, its a regular desert if you just look at the ground, with small dusty rocks and a few tiny dry plants, but then all of a sudden the ground turns into a mountain, and then behind that there are snow-covered mountains, and behind that are clouds. and the indus river reminds me of the grand canyon with the huge cliffs on either side. anyway, we felt like we were in a movie or video game or weird dream as we walked along a small stream through the brown desert, all of us holding sticks and listening to techno music from pheylan's speaker. we found a lot of unmistakably human bones-- ribs, femurs, vertabre, finger bones, and a perfect skull with all its teeth. after being really excited and slightly creeped out for a while, we put them back where we found them and went back to secmol. nobody there seems to know why the bones are there.

Ali

Friday, March 12, 2010

SECMOL Campus


Hi Parents,
Just a quick update, we are back at SECMOL and spending the next month focusing on academics, interspersed with some guest speakers and a few fieldtrips. Yesterday we took a trip to Choglamsar, the Tibetan Refuge Colony, outside of the city of Leh, to visit the Tibetan Children's Village School, hear about the history of the Tibet conflict, and hear the story of a man who escaped from Tibet as a small boy. This week James's English class has been wrapping up reading Patrick French's Tibet, Tibet and learning about Tibetan history. SECMOL hosted a Cultural Workshop this week, so campus has been quite busy with the pounding of traditional drums, flute playing, singing, and lots and lots of dancing! VISpas attended the final performance. Many care packages arrived in the mail, and there were many big smiles! Phone calls to SECMOL Campus have also been much appreciated, the best times to call are mornings and evenings (Indian Time), when students are usually in the kitchen having breakfast or dinner, or in the dorms.

To give you an idea of the days here, the morning begins with 7:50 VIS student meeting, (some students on cow duty and solar duty start their days much earlier, 5:30 or 6:30am!) 8am breakfast,9am work hour, 10am class, 11am tea, 11:30 class, 12:15 class, 1pm lunch, 2pm class, 3-4 freetime, 4pm afternoon tea, 4:30 responsibilities, 6pm class (some days), and 7:30 dinner, 8:30 evening activities.

If you call, most likely a Ladakhi student will answer. They are learning English, and most are quite good but it helps to speak slowly and to just keep repeating your VIS student's name...eventually they'll find the right person! Often to fill airtime one of the other VIS students may pick up the phone while someone else is running over to the dormitory. Internet has been out on campus, but we've been in Leh about once a week and you probably have heard from your VISpa by now. (I hope!)

The Sham trek was wonderful. Lots of snow, lots of hiking, everyone has acclimatized extraordinarily well. Several students have posted about the homestay experience, and I just uploaded both a photo of one homestay family and one of the group on a pass around 13,000 feet, on our hardest day. In Environmental Science, we've been doing a unit on Agriculture and Appropriate Technology, so students spent their freetime in villages interviewing villagers about topics ranging from Composting Toilets, to Water Wheels (for grinding grain), to Seabuckthorn Fencing (used like barbed wire, to keep cows from damaging precious trees), to Oil Drum Stoves and Cow Dung Fuel, and many, many more. In conjunction with English, James taught a journalism workshop and students have just turned in their final articles.

Fieldtrips to Stok Monastary, the Tibetan Colony, and guest speakers on Ancient Futures, a Buddhism Workshop, and Nick's unit on Buddhism have occupied our Ladakh Then and Now Class, as well as discussions on the book Tibet, Tibet and newspaper articles. Ladakhi class has gotten off to a very slow start, as our Ladakhi teacher has been sick, but James has been teaching the class and students got some intensive practice during homestay visits! We are getting a new Ladakhi teacher begining next week.

This photo is one of the main building at SECMOL, during the Culture Workshop, the uppermost floor houses the school's library and the girl's dorm, and the lower floor is the auditorium and classrooms. That's about all for now, as I write this, everyone is happy and healthy and enjoying Ladakh.
Julley,
Amy

Hemischupachen


A photo from one of our homestay homes in the village of Hemischupachen, on the Sham Trek, where we spent two nights researching appropriate technology, enjoying tea, helping to make dinner, and playing cricket with the 2 small boys in the family. In the photo is the homestay family (mom, dad, grandmother, 2 young boys) VISpas Max, Emery, Schuyler, Laura, and me, and Tenzing, a SECMOL student who came on trek with us to help translate.
-Amy

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Sham Trek


A group photo of us on the Sham Trek, somewhere around 13,500 feet!

Sunday, March 7, 2010

On the trail



On the trail on a long day, VISpas and the two cheerful Ladakhi horsemen who accompanied us on the trek, carrying our gear (and a few of us!) on their beautiful ponies.

Homestay in Yangtang





Photos from our first night of homestays, village of Yangtang

Back from the trek!

Six days clambering around sandy, rocky, snowy mountains and we're back at SECMOL, thank goodness! Everybody had a fantastic time, despite some sickness and sore injuries. The first day we left our taxis in a blizzard, snow accumulating quickly on our backpacks and frozen hats. Later, as we descended a mountain pass the snow stopped and we stopped for lunch, chowing down on some delicious peanut butter, apricot jam bread and kit-kats. When we reached our first home stay in the town of Yangtang, we were all exhausted, huddling around the small stove drinking tea. Our days were quite similar to this for the rest of the trek, drinking tea and eating biscuits around the fire. Every home stay seemed more welcoming than the previous, and despite the remoteness of some, there was always plenty of warm and tasty food to eat with no shortage of tea.
The second night in Ule, the most remote village, was very cool. I stayed at a house far removed from the rest of the tiny village with two other vispas, James, and Jigdol, one of the SECMOL students who joined us on the trek. We stayed with an elderly couple whose children were living elsewhere. They treated us very well, cooking a lunch of boiled barley balls fried in yak cheese and butter with sugar. At night, the father tucked us in with the heaviest and itchiest blankets ever, made from yak wool.
The rest of the trek came with favorable weather and an even nicer home stay in Hemishukpachen. I stayed in a large house with three other vispas, Amy and Tenzin, another SECMOL student. Highlights included: Being served tea an biscuits in bed, an incredibly cute two and a half year old and an overall incredibly kind and happy family. I was also able to find out lots about my appropriate technology, terracing. (For which we're all writing articles).
The last day of trekking started with an incredibly fun run down the side of a very snowy mountain, led by our trusty guide Tashi, with lots of whooping and shouts of excitement. Others followed, tumbling into the fluffy snow. We all dried ourselves at the bottom in the intense Ladakhi sun. An hour later we started our ascent up a very, very steep hill. At the top we felt truly accomplished, chowing down on more peanut butter, chocolate and apricots.
The trek was more than just fun; the night after we got back we all told each other about our fondest memories, whether it was playing cricket with a two year old, getting to eat meat, understanding a conversation between a mother and her son in Ladakhi, simply because what was happening was so familiar, or the simple amazement with home stays, Ladakhi villages and the beautiful landscape.

(posted by Schuyler)

Trekking Homestays

After a few hours of Trekking in the Himalayas, its nice to have a welcoming family to serve you hot sweet tea and biscuits, or the traditional Ladakhi bread. Our first homestay split the VIS group between two houses. Three Ladakhi's from SECMOL accompanied us on our Trek, so they were split between us. There was alot of time to walk around, and enjoy the scenery. The mountians were breathtaking, and always different in each village. The night consisted of eating Skew, and drinking lots of tea. The cold night is warmed by our sleepingbags along with the many blankets our homestay parents brought us. After a nice breakfast of Jipati and Dal, its time to Trek again.
The rest of our homestays split us between 4-6 houses. That put 2-3 VISpa's together with eithor one SECMOLpa, James, Amy, or Nick. The small amount of people make the experience much more interesting. None of my Parents throughout all the homestays spoke any English at all. It was a task to interact with them when all you know how to say is Jullay and a few random words. Even with the language barrier, everyone is so nice and friendly, and never fail to fill your teacup. These homestays have opened my eyes to where the students from SECMOL really come from.

Jullay!

- Mikey Piscitelli

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Taking one for the Team

Alright, so I'm not much of a blogger - in fact I',m out right against it - since it is one of the main factors in the demise of the major I spent $165,000 to claim my degree in.

But for this time, I'll take one for the team.

I am highly impressed with the VIS students. It is not easy to transplant yourself into another country - away from home and all that you thought you knew - let alone in a place that challenges the mind, body and all of the senses in such unprecedented ways. They are holding up their end of the bargain however, I would even go as far as saying they're "trucking right along".

Secmol has opened their door to us, after quite an adventure: rafting the Ganges, becoming novice Buddhists and getting stuck in Delhi for a couple days too long. We made it however, and have kicked off the semester in the right fashion, jumping right in (after a few days to acclimate) and "startin' the learnin'".

Teaching Buddhism to the students has opened my eyes into what is a great group of highly intelligent and introspective beings, that without even any introduction, one can tell these students have all been delving deep into what it means to be a part of this giant globe - perhaps even the much larger and more complex thing we call, the universe.

It's cold in Ladakh, but at least we can see the stars at night and breathe the fresh air that emanates from the bountiful mountains that encompass us.

Orion is just as visible as in my small wood-locked hometown in Maine...something that brings a little home to a land so far away.

De yak po duk.

Jullay,

Nicholas

Friday, February 19, 2010


We're finally here! After a very long five days in Delhi (which half of us spent sick in bed) we were all extremely excited to hear that the snow in Leh had let up and our plane could fly. We took off from Delhi, a city for which most of us have mixed emotions, and landed in absolute paradise! I'll never forget that feeling I got as our rickety little bus bumped around the corner of a mountain and we got our first glimps of SECMOL. Our home for the next three months stood quietly between trhe towering Himalayans, the only building in sight. I was so excited I thought fireworks were going to explode out of my ears. (Good thing that's just a metaphor; setting the hair of my fellow classmates on fire wouldn't have been the most ideal way to begin the semester).
We've only been here a week and already we've learned so much. We're taking English, Science, and Ladakhi studies every day with James and Amy, but our new Ladakhi friends are teaching us as well. The campus is run by the students; if we don't take care of our responsibilities, nobody is going to pick up the slack. We move the solar panels, or the power goes out. We water the plants, or they die. I find a few jobs more exciting than others. Milking the cows is great. We have four, one of which is due to have her calf within the month, I can't wait! I think we all really enjoy cooking, too. Although I can't name any of the food we're eating, it's really good and very fun to make.
My favorite part of the day is probably English Conversation class. All of the Americans and Ladakhis gather together and just talk. The idea is to help the Ladakhis with their English, but the friendships that come out of this time are equally, if not more important. Everyone is so open and excited to meet you. It's the first time I've ever felt so connected to a community in such a short amount of time. Nobody here is a stranger, just a friend that I haven't met yet. It's hard for me to wrap my head around the fact that this is school. Not to say that I don't think I'm learning, it's quite the opposite. My amazement comes from the way people here reguard education. Learning isn't something that is forced upon you. Here is it easy to see more goals than just getting an "A" on that next test. We lose sight of this too often in the states. Education shouldn't be a painstaking obligation; it's an opportunity to shape your own future. The Ladakhis get that.
I'm writing this from Leh. It's a fantastic little city with roads winding up the mountain side. prayer flags hang between buildings and there is a shop for any warm article of clothing we may have forgotten to pack. Monday or Tuesday we have a day off from classes and plan to come back to Leh with some of our new Ladakhi friends. It will be great to know the city a little better, along with our new classmates. I think I can speak for everyone when I say that this place is amazing! Although I'm sure we all miss home in one way or another, it's really exciting to be living like this.

-Emery Boudreau

Finally Here

We made it... We are finally in Ladakh. The trip was long and tough, with an extra unexpected week in Delhi, but we are here. This place is absolutely beautiful. Even more than I could have expected. Just walking out of a building and being hit with the sight of those beautiful mountains takes my breath away every time. The past few nights have had the extra perk of the night sky. The clear sky permits limitless stargazing, and I have seen 8 shooting stars in the last 2 nights. The people at SECMOL could not be better. They are welcoming, friendly, and infinitely curious about us and the lives that we lead. They are always willing to play a card game, or a game of chess, or just go for a walk and talk about whatever. I will admit that the food is already a old, but it is good and definitely a healthy alternative to the normal diet at home. The rooms are cozy, and though they are cold, they are directly connected to the greenhouses that warm them up on a sunny day. I was actually amazed when we were playing cards in the greenhouse and I ended up sweating in a tshirt, whereas outside I have to bundle up wherever I go. I am grateful that the walk to the bus station is a couple miles, so that I have the chance to get away from the internet and things. From here, I feel like things can only get better. Tomorrow Mikey and I are planning on taking out the unicycle, and next week we will begin treks. I am finally in a place where I feel comfortable.

~~Pheylan Blue Martin

Friday, February 12, 2010

Mahashrivaratri

Well, we're still in Delhi. But the snows in Leh have stopped (knock on wood) and we have 17 seats on the flight tomorrow, weather permitting. Here's hoping that we get out of Delhi tomorrow! In the meantime, James, Nick, and I have been learning our way around this crazy city, with our ever amazing guide Tashi Angchok, and his skill at speaking Hindi. We've taken the metro several times now and are used to the separate queues for guys and girls, then the aggressive security pat down behind the screens, then the bag x-ray, just to go a few stops. At least you don't have to take your shoes off. We've seen the National Indian History Museum, Dillihut, Pahar Ganj, and the Red Fort, eaten at more Indian restaurants than one can count and even made a trip to McDonalds at the request of the students--McDonalds here serves no beef, a concession they had to make for the Hindu majority here. We've travelled by rickshaw through streets crowded with motorcycles, oxen pulled carts, and children riding horses down major highways. We've watched a wedding procession and now a major holiday celebration from the rooftop of our hotel. We've learned to endure the labrynthine streets, filled with beggars missing limbs, sleeping homeless bodies, street hawkers gesticulating wildly, and the bizarre paparazzi effect that our group has. As we pass, many Indians whip out cell phones to subtely, or often, not so subtly snap a picture. Today at the Red Fort one Indian women came over to our group as we sat listening to a history lecture, sat down next to us, and her husband snapped her picture. As we later sat at a different spot, four small well dressed children ages 2-6 craftily snap our photos with a cellphone, then rush back to their parents picnicing on the grass, who review the pictures, shake their heads, and then send the children back for more! Today is the holiday of Mahashrivaratri, the wedding of Hindu god Shiva; a large stage has gone up overnight, blocking the entire road from traffic, decorated with enormous statues of Hindu gods, scaffolding, enormous vats of oil frying breads, and Hindi music blaring. Delhi never ceases to amaze! Hopefully...hopefully Ladakh will be amazing us very soon...here's hoping the good weather holds.
-Amy

Tuesday, February 9, 2010

Stuck in Delhi

Hello VIS friends,

We're waiting for clear weather in Leh to allow for a flight to Ladakh. In the meantime we'll be staying at Hotel USA in Paharganj (phone nos: 011-23551455, 23551448). Students remain positive despite the delay, though everyone is excited to settle down at SECMOL soon.

I've posted some photos from the first ten days (students giving presentations on Buddhist concepts at the Songtsen library, rafting near Rishekesh, and our first group breakfast on the roof of Hotel USA). All photos from this and some previous semesters can be seen here.

~James






Monday, February 8, 2010

Pre-Ladakh


Hello everyone,
Everything here has been amazing so far, we are all getting to know each other and already working very well as a group. We all loved being at the Songtsen Library. We spent a lot of time with the monks, we took two classes a day. At the end we did presentations on different parts of Buddhism, in front of our group and a few monks. We went on a hike two days ago to Mussorie. It was very far and difficult, also it was mostly uphill. We all managed to encourage each other and kept going. It was a great accomplishment I'm surprised but very happy that we all did it. I am already learning a lot about myself along this trip and its only been a week. I am learning that I can accomplish things solo, but also as a group. We have a great group and I am looking forward to getting to know these kids even more when we arrive at school. :)

Nicole

A VISpa Student Talks!


Well hello all in those good old United States of America. I am Max Hausslein, one of us students doing the India journey, reporting live from some random internet cafe in New Delhi. CURRENTLY we are stuck in the smoggy city due to foul weather up north towards Leh, but it's not that bad. It just rained, a nice cool down (kind of) from the humid heat, for the first time, although it was for only around 15 minutes. Delhi is and has been in no way the highlight of our pre-Ladakh adventures, however. Although I believe a bit of our adventures have been covered elsewhere in the blog, before we arrived here midday yesterday, we cleansed ourselves in the Ganges on some white water rafts, studied devoutly in a Buddhist library, played volleyball with some monks, and even hiked some very long distance up some very steep hills through some very remote territories, the reward being a very col place and view. All in all, good times.

So as I sit here in this alleyway (which really is quite something) I cross my fingers that we'll get a flight soon to Leh. In the meantime, I'll enjoy the unique sights of birds' nests of electricity wires, the stench of a local "public bathroom" and haggle with some nifty merchants for some nifty gifts. Even if this sounds pessimistic, it's not - it's just all very different from the little green mountain state we call home.

Over and out, Max Hausslein

Sunday, February 7, 2010

Songtsen & Mussoorie


Yesterday was a long day, we hiked roughly 13 miles from outside of Dehradun to the mountain village of Mussoorie, at around 6,000 feet. It was a beautiful hike, first following a prayer flag festooned river up, then winding through villages appearing out of the greenery, little children chasing after us, peeking through fences, their giggling giving them away. Mussoorie always seemed just around the next bend, as we climbed on, heading towards the distant dots on the horizon. Finally, we could clearly see white buildings jutting out of the steep hillside, or as Tashi put it, "hanging like a beehive" off the edge of the mountain. Arriving in Mussoorie we had a hasty snack on a balcony overlooking the vast valley we had just climbed, then piled onto a bus for a long windy ride down. The past week was spent outside of Dehradun, at the Songtsen Library and Center for Tibetan studies, learning the Ladakhi/Tibetan alphabet, and doing a short weeklong introduction to Buddism, all taught by the Drikung Kagyu monks of Songtsen. Songtsen is an amazing place to study, beautiful library housing vast scrolls and more modern Buddism books. Students all presented a short presentation on one of three topics: The Wheel of Life, The 8 Fold Path, and the 4 Noble Truths. Keep an eye on the Songtsen Library website, they were eager to post photographs of our group and our presentations on their website.

After an early morning (3am!) start, we caught the train from Dehradun to Delhi, and arrived around 11am this morning in Delhi. Students are checking internet and calling home now, and tomorrow we fly to Ladakh, our home for the rest of the semester. After the crush and crowds of Delhi, we're all looking forward to a little space in Ladakh!
-Amy

Saturday, January 30, 2010

News from Amy Higgins, received by Curtis on Jan 30:

We're in Rishikesh now, after a beautiful long train ride from Delhi
to Haridwar. We saw people bathing in the Ganges in Haridwar, and
watched a Hindu "puja" prayer service last night in Rishikesh,
overlooking the banks of the Ganges, enormous statue of Shiva rising
out of the water. Students are using the internet and calling home if
they want during free time this morning, and then we head down to the
river to meet our raft guides. We'll spend tonight camping next to the
Ganges, then raft tomorrow. Everyone is happy and healthy and excited.

Thursday, January 28, 2010

Delhi

Hi parents and friends,
We've arrived in Delhi! Amazingly enough all the bags were there when we got off the plane. We met our guide and good friend Tashi Angchok at the airport and he took us to Hotel USA where we spent the night and had a good breakfast on the rooftop overlooking Delhi. Students are calling home as I write this, so you should be hearing from them soon. Everyone is happy and healthy and managing well. We'll be visiting the Manzil school today, running errands, and then taking the train north tomorrow, then rafting the Ganges.
-Amy & James

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

Newark

Hi parents,
Just a quick hi, the group has completed the first brief leg of their trip from Burlington to Newark and are now enjoying a long layover in Newark. After a few icebreakers, we're getting to know each other, and working on the first homework assignment.

Next up will be our 14 hour flight to Delhi, straight to the bed after arriving, then Thursday morning (Wednesday night for parents) we'll find phones and calls/emails home. Internet access will be sporadic, especially while we're rafting and at Songtsen, so don't worry if there's no news on the blog during that period.

The Songtsen Library link is right here for a glimpse of where we'll be: http://www.songtsen-library.net/

While in Delhi we'll also be visiting the Manzil School for an evening of conversation, this is their website: http://manzil.in/our-story/

That's all for now,
James & Amy

Monday, January 25, 2010

Going to Ladakh

It's hard to believe I'll be on a plane to Delhi tomorrow! I'm looking forward to being in the mountains, meeting the Ladakhis, and living in a really different culture. But for now, I have to finish packing.

Marga

Friday, January 15, 2010

Welcome

Jullay to everyone! The lead photo to this blog is a shot of the main building at SECMOL's campus in the village of Phey, 18km outside of Ladakh's capital city of Leh, just after an early-morning snow flurry. From time to time, members of the Vermont Intercultural Semesters Spring 2010 Ladakh program (or "VISpas" as we are known by our friends at SECMOL) will post reflections and photos. This will usually be done from internet 'cafes' in Leh during our weekly trips into town. Timestamps below blogs will be posted in India Standard Time. (We're 10.5 hours ahead of E.S.T., 9.5 ahead during daylight savings time.) Please feel free to post comments, and check back often!